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o get into the benzene during separation pour everything back into the separator, let it stand and repeat the separation more carefully. It is better to leave some benzene layer in the water and emulsion than to get emulsion and water into the benzene. Nothing will (Nyphaea (Nyphaea Alba) be wasted. All of the benzene which contains the mescaline will eventually be salvaged. Sometimes the layers will fail to separate properly.
If this is the case immerse the funnel or jug in a deep pot of hot water for two hours.
This will break up the emulsion and bring about the separation. Prepare a solution of 2 parts sulfuric acid and one part water. (never add water to the acid or it will splatter; add the acid a little at a time to the water by pouring it down the inside of the graduate or measuring cup containing the water.) Add 25 drops of the acid solution one drop at a time to the benzene extracts. Stopper the jug and shake well for one minute. Then let stand for five minutes. White streaks of mescaline sulfates should begin to appear in the benzene. If these do not appear, shake the jug more vigorously for two to three minutes and let it settle for five more minutes.
I have found that when extracting mescaline from San Pedro it is sometimes necessary to shake the mixture more thoroughly and for a longer time to get the mescaline streaks to form. This is probably because of the lower mescaline content in the plant. This would also apply to any peyote that does not have a high mescaline content. After the streaks appear add 25 more drops of the acid solution in the same manner, shake as before and let settle for ten minutes. More streaks will appear. Add 15 drops of acid, shake and wait 15 minutes for streaks to form. Add 10 drops, shake and wait about 30 minutes. Test the solution with wide range pH paper. It should show that the solution is between pH 7.5 and 8. Allow the mescaline sulfate crystals to completely precipitate. Siphon off as much of

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the benzene as possible without disturbing the crystals on the bottom of the jug. The next steps are to salvage any mescaline still in the water and emulsion layer. Combine the benzene siphonings with the water/emulsion layer, shake these well together for 5 minutes and let settle for two hours as before.
Carefully remove the benzene layer, treat it again with acid, precipitate the crystals and siphon off the benzene as in the previous steps. Recombine the siphoned benzene with the watery layer and repeat this again and again until no more crystals precipitate. Siphon off as much benzene as possible without drawing crystals through the siphon. The next step involves removing the remaining benzene from the crystals. There are two methods to choose from. The first is the quickest, but requires ether, which is dangerous and often difficult to procure. Shake up the crystals with the remaining benzene and pour it into a funnel with filter paper. After the benzene has passed through the filter rinse Ayahuasca Ayahuasca Red Caapi) Ayahuasca Ayahuasca Red CUTTINGS POWDER ayahuasca cusco crops is put into a 500 ml flask along with a solution made up of 150 ml ethyl alcohol, 150 ml water, and 100 grams KOH. Next, 15 ml of hydrazine hydrate is added. This hydrazine should be the monohydrate, which is 64% hydrazine. If a weaker variety has been scrounged up, this can be made to work by adding more, and using less water. Now the flask should be fitted with a condenser, and flushed with nitrogen. Then heat the flask in an oil bath to gentle boiling for 4 hours. A slow stream of nitrogen to the flask during the reflux averts the danger from hydrazine. The flask is next cooled, and the contents poured into a sep funnel of at least 1000 ml capacity. The batch is then extracted with 600 ml ether, followed by 600 ml of an 85-15% mix of ether and alcohol. Finally, one more extraction with 600 ml of 85-15% ether-alcohol is done. All of the desired product should now be extracted into the solvent, and out of the water. This fact should be checked using a black light to look for the characteristic blue fluorescence. The combined solvent extracts should now be lowered to a pH of about 2 using HC1. At this point, a precipitate should form, and it should be filtered out. The precipitate should be washed free of entrained product with 4-1 ether-alcohol, and the washing added to the rest of the filtered solvent. Now 2750 ml of water should be added to the solvent, and the mixture placed in a gallon and a half glass jug or 5000 ml beaker. To this should be added 3 portions of cation exchange resin in H* cycle. Cation exchange resin is a common item of commerce used in deionized water systems. Check the yellow pages under "water" and see which of the local Culligan men offer deionized water systems. The deionizers come in two-tank systems with one tank packed with cation exchange resin to remove calcium, magnesium and sodium from the water. The other tank has an anion exchange resin to remove chlorides, sulfates, and so on. It is no great task to buy cation exchange resin from these outlets. The resin consists of tiny plastic beads coated with the exchanger. In the case of the cation exchangers, Practical LSD Manufacture 44 this is generally a sulfonate. "In H* cycle" means that the resin is charged up and ready to go. This is generally done by soaking the resin in 20% sulfuric acid in water for a while, then rinsing with distilled water. Check the directions on the container of resin. Steer clear of mixed resins that contain both anion and cation exchangers. If the Culligan man is too stupid to know the difference, or doesn't know what he has, keep looking until you find one who knows his business. The treatment with three portions of cation exchange resin in H* cycle should be done as follows: Each portion of resin should weigh about 15 grams. The first portion is added, and then the mixture should be stirred strongly or shaken for about 10 minutes. The product will come out of the liquid, and stick Articles Red Caapi) Ayahuasca Ayahuasca Red Ayahuasca Yage

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